Handmade Beauty Connection A Publication of The Indie Beauty Network
February
21,
2005
ISSN 1530-9630 | Vol. 6, Issue
8
To subscribe, click here.
[p] 503.722.7557 [f]
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[e] info@essentialwholesale.com
1.
IBN
Update: Welcome New
& Renewing IBN Members!!
2.
Feature Article: Caring For The Skin Of Tweens & Teens
3. Handmade Beauty University Classes Now Available Online!
4.
Handmade Beauty Recipes Of The Week:
Fresh Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh Cucumber Toner
5.
Handmade Beauty
Trivia
Question: win some
cucumber hydrosol
6.
Handmade Beauty Product Review:
Cocoa L'Orange Shea
Butter Soap
7. Handmade Beauty Book Review: Sticks, Stones, Roots
& Bones by Stephanie Rose Bird
1.
IBN
Update: Welcome New
& Renewing IBN Members!!
Renewing Members!
Cactus & Ivy | Lisa
Rodgers | South Carolina
* handcrafted bath, body and home fragrance products
Bitter
Creek
Candle Supply, Inc. | Doneen St. John | Wisconsin
* MP & CP soapmaking supplies, premium bath and body bases, oils,
butters, cosmetic colorants, micas, glitters and more; locations in Texas
and Wisconsin
Ambrosia Naturals
| Michele Pepin | California
* handcrafted products designed to promote healthy vibrant skin and renew
the body and spirit
BioChemicals
International | Larry Moroni | Florida
* suppliers of exotic ingredients such as butters, oils, aloe vera and
lotion base concentrate.
New Members
Adassa James Institute,
Inc. | Maureen Dearborne | Nevada
* individual handmade
customized aromatherapy skincare solutions
Body
Blessings | Twanna Toliver-Maheia | New York
* spiritually inspired
handmade beauty products
Annie's
Soap Barn, LLC | Bobbie O'Brien | Texas
* handcrafted soap, and
other bath and beauty sundries
Lady
Hawk of Heartland | Blondell Lehocki | Florida
* handcrafted soaps,
glycerin soaps, lotions, perfume oils, massage oils, lip balms, etc
IBN Members On The Move!
IBN member Jena Thompson of Daisy Blue Naturals is pleased to announce the birth of her son, Ethan River, born January 31, 2005, and weighing in at 6 lbs., 12 ounces, and 20 inches long! Congratulations Jena!
IBN member Danielle Fleming of IBN member DK Mind and Body is featured in Electric City online magazine. The story is complete with a fun (yet tame) photo of smiling Danielle enjoying her goodies in a jacuzzi tub. Great news Danielle!
Learn more about our members and
their exciting activities by visiting their Web sites through
IBN's Online
Member Directory, now with 4 ways to search: (1) by
state/country; (2) by member business name; (3) by keyword search;
or (4) using our new alphabetical listings.
2. Feature
Article: Caring For The Skin Of Tweens & Teens
Lately
I've been watching my 3-year old daughter (Vanessa) spend time assessing her
appearance in the mirror more and more frequently. After I helped her put on a
new outfit the other day, complete with black patent leather shoes and black
velveteen slacks, I watched her go straight to the mirror to see how it all
looked. She shrugged her shoulders slightly, as if to "feel" the new
knit blouse. Then she turned her head from side to side to see how her hair
looked. Then she shook her head "just so" to see how her hair looked
when it moved. Oh, it took me back and I just marveled at how hard young people
are on themselves and how early they begin to develop the ability to decide
whether they are or are not satisfied with how they look.
While it's easy enough to fix most outfit issues -- just pick out a different one -- it's not nearly as easy to fix lousy skin issues. While that's usually the case for everyone, it's even more so for young adults, especially tween and teens who have to deal with the pressures of fitting in and inventing who they are as individuals all at the same time. So what's a tween to do? Acne is an inevitable right of passage! Unruly eyebrows abound! Dry lips haunt and taunt! This week, a panel of experts, Laura Craig, Kayla Fioravanti and Jimm Harrison,* help us to understand what makes tween and teen skin to special, and unwrap some natural ways to help teens deal with their unique skin issues.
1. Why is teen and tween skin so different from child and adult skin?
LC: During the onset of puberty the body begins to produce hormones called androgens. This acceleration in hormones causes oil-producing sebaceous glands to go into overtime, putting teen skin at particular risk for acne. Also, teens can sometimes have the misconception that acne is temporary during teen years and they will “wait it out”. This is not necessarily true, and can cause the acne to not be taken care of properly.
KF: Newborns, teens and adults all suffer from hormone related acne. Newborn acne is short lived because the hormones that support the acne pass from the mother in the womb to the baby. Shortly after delivery, the baby's body flushes out the hormones and the acne clears. it is not until the onset of adolescence that an increase in hormonal activity causes acne to reappear. In many cases, acne clears up in early adulthood when the hormonal system finally harmonizes itself. For many women, acne reappears midway through the menstrual cycle.
JH: The primary difference is hormonal and developmental. All skin at all ages will have differences that are dependent upon stages of development, environmental and lifestyle issues that change as we age, stress or psychological balance and genetics. These conditions have certain commonalities at specific ages and can be generalized but are really more individualized. During the teen and tween years the skin still has an ability to bounce back from damage and injury. The younger you are the more enhanced the repair capabilities will be, unless of course their is a genetic or diseased condition that prevents this. What may not be apparent to adolescents is the damage that is occurring at this age due to free radicals and inflammation that won't show until the later years in the form of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
2. What are the best at home treatments for teen and tween skin?
LC: For starters, start with what goes on inside the body. First of all, RELAX! Remember that 85% of teenagers have acne, so the more you stress and worry, the more likely you are to trigger the condition. Drink between 50% and 65% (those are not typos!!) of your body weight in water daily to help keep the body cleansed. For every cup of caffeine, drink at least twice that amount of water. As for topical preparations recommend cleansing with an anti-oxidant cleanser, toning with an alcohol free toner (to place the skin pH balance back to normal 4.5-5.5) and moisturizing every day. I suggest a gentle exfoliant product every 3 days and clay mask once weekly. Because acne is not caused by dirt, there is no need to over-wash. Two gentle washings a day with lukewarm or cool water is sufficient. Anything more can leave healthy skin dry and irritated, triggering the glands to produce even more oil. Always cleanse before bedtime and after vigorous physical activity when perspiration on the skin creates an attractive environment for the bacteria that causes acne to develop. Do not pick acne as it can cause more inflammation and permanent scarring. Finally, don’t buy into the fallacy that sunbathing helps acne. While it may temporarily dry up some of the oil, the drying factor could actually encourage the skin to produce more oil -- not to mention increase you chances of skin cancer, a condition to which acne is far more preferable.
KF: Acne is an inflammatory disease that can be exacerbated by chemical and fragrance laden products so try to use natural, toxin free, chemical free skincare products. The body treats chemical as though they are foreign invaders. Choosing natural products and ingredients allows the skin to breathe better and supports the normal, balanced and healthy production of sebum, the skin's natural oil. Making products at home is a great way to control what goes on your skin. I recommend Donna Maria's Making Aromatherapy Creams & Lotions" for this purpose. Also, try my recipes for Fresh Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh Cucumber Toner.
JH:
My recommendations are the same for everyone of all ages, with slight variations,
specifically, using organic and natural botanicals internally and topically.
Simple formulations have a natural ability to treat and balance all skin types
at all ages. While I recommend that people seek out natural ingredients in
natural products, I also suggest caution as many products labeled
"natural" are not so at all. At the same time, I am dissatisfied with
and do not recommend synthetics and "synthetic naturals" as they have
no history of development or harmony with the human body.
For a basic program, I suggest a twice a day regimen of gentle cleansing and
moisturizing. Cleansers should not disrupt the lipid barrier of the skin. For
this reason, I do not as a rule recommend soaps made with lye because they can
be too alkaline and extremely harsh on the face. Cleansers made with filtered
water, yucca and olive oil are good, as well as ones made with new and gentle
synthetic surfactants such as decyl polyglucose and those that have the common
name "coco-protein". Contrary to popular belief, cleansed facial skin
should not feel "squeaky clean" and harsh cleansers that product this
feeling often break down the skin's protective barrier, aggravating the
conditions that they are meant to eliminate. I recommend avoiding so-called
"antibacterial soaps" as they destroy the natural protective
"flora" of the skin.
A moisturizer should be light and penetrate and harmonize with the skin's lipid
barrier. A day moisturizer should provide protection and maintenance, so should
be made with anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory ingredients and lipids. Essential
oils in a base of fatty acid oils, such as olive oil, rosehip seed oil and non-GMO
soy lecithin are nice. While I have heard cautions against using rosehip seed
oil on oily skin, my experience has not warranted this caution. However, care
should always be given to choosing excellent quality high end oils and using
them sparingly as an ingredient. Too much of even a good thing can cause
irritation.
3. Should treatments differ depending on weather conditions?
LC: No, not if you already use a moisturizer during the summer. It’s always recommended to use a moisturizer to protect against the winter wind.
KF: If you have a healthy, balance skincare regime, there's no need to vary it with the seasons. Always be careful not to expose unprotected skin to the sun in an attempt to reduce acne. This overexposure causes inflammation and makes the skin produce even more oil.
JH: The skin has a homeostatic function in regulating the body temperature. In warmer temperatures, the activity of the skin is different than it is in colder temperatures. My recommendations of organic and natural for skin maintenance remain the same regardless of temperature or season, but application methods may be adjusted to account for such things as environmental differences, seasonal allergies, etc. In colder weather, the skin may become dehydrated, especially when confronted with the dry heat of winter rooms. In such cases, it may help to apply a heavier botanical emollient to the skin such as by altering the usual routine to include both a layer of day cream and a top layer of an emollient night cream. In summer, or hot climates, the body regulates temperature by releasing water through the sweat glands, providing moisture to the skin and thus requiring less externally applied moisturize. The excess water and oils of the skin are utilized to carry the smaller amount of moisturizer protection across the surface. Don't forget UV protection from exposure to the sun, in both summer and winter!
4. What about teen/tween male skin -- any differences there?
LC: Androgens is a male hormone, so even though both male and female develop androgens during puberty, males will produce more. Thusly, the male teenager tends to have worse acne.
KF: Yes. The male hormone (androgens) make teenage boys more prone to acne than girls. While the ovaries and adrenal glands do produce androgens, estrogen (the female hormone), binds up testosterone and reduces the production of androgens. This results in less acne in teen girls than in teen boys.
JH: Males produce androgens, as do women in smaller amounts, and tend to have more breakouts as a result at these ages. Males also develop facial hair. At puberty the follicles may not be fully developed and hairs may become trapped beneath the surface causing inflammation and more breakouts, a condition called "keratosis pilaris".
5. Many people think that oily skin needs no moisturizer -- is that true?
LC: Not necessarily. Oily skin is caused by sebaceous glands working overtime. Our skin has something called an “acid mantle” where our sweat and oil meet to protect our skin from “free radicals” (pollution, smoking...environment as a whole). The more exposed our skin is to a dirty environment, the harder our oil glands produce oil to give to the acid mantle. Moisturizers act as a barrier between our skin and these environmental factors, thus aiding the skin so that it does not have to produce unnecessary and/or excess oil.
KF: All skin needs moisturizers. Many people with oily skin use drying skincare products which can cause the skin to product extra oils to make up for the damage being done by the stripping products. Well nourished and moisturized skin creates a natural and healthy cycle that leaves the skin balanced.
JH:
Oil loves oil. I highly recommend oil on oily skin. There are certainly
preferences for specific oils, but generally, it is the quality of the oil used
that matters. Use only cold expeller pressed oils, avoiding solvent extracted or
hydrogenated oils. (Natural ingredients, like oils and essential oils, often get
blamed for negative results, when in reality the problems arise due to poorly
processed naturals or "synthetic natural" additives.)
Botanical fatty acids, contained in vegetable, nut and fruit oils, can soften
hardened sebum. This, combined with the anti-inflammatory action of the fatty
acid or an essential oil, will help clear the follicles and prevent acne. This
is another situation where application methods, not ingredients, are shifted.
Oily skin requires less product, where the natural sebum can be used to spread
small amounts of treatment oils or moisturizer across the surface. Oily skin can
be dehydrated, especially from the use of harsh detergent cleansers that strip
the natural lipid barrier. The lipid barrier is not the same as sebum, and can
be replenished and protected with the use of appropriately selected botanical
oils.
Reduce stress and oil production may be reduced. Stress deserves a lot of
attention in regards to oily skin and acneic conditions. Inflammation is a
direct cause of acne and oily skin is a genetic condition that may be aggravated
by increased stress. Essential oils can be included in the skincare regime to
reduce inflammation and the stressors that may be causing it.
6. What about alcohol in toners for oily skin -- is that good?
LC: Don't use alcohol-based products. Alcohol strips the top layer of the skin and many astringents contain alcohol which can cause dryness and irritation. Again, this can prompt excess oil production and more blemishes.
KF: Toners should be used to normalize the pH balance of skin, close pores and remove debris -- not to dry out the skin.
JH: Alcohol is good, alcohol is bad. It is not a good idea to use alcohol on the skin to reduce sebum for the same reason it is not good to use harsh, strong cleansers. They breaks down the protective lipid barrier of the skin. Alcohol is good when it is used in products as a preservative, but not as a treatment in a toner to reduce sebum.
7. What essential oils do you recommend as best for oily skin?
LC: lemon, tea tree, orange, grapefruit
KF: Lavender and tea tree are the most common and useful oils for acne and are superior due to their anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and antibacterial properties. German and Roman chamomile, helichrysum and lavender are good for long term use to prevent acne scars and pitted skin. Juniper, petigrain, cedarwood, sandalwood, grapefruit, rosewood, ylang ylang, frankincense and cypress are useful for oily and congested skin. Rosemary and grapefruit are natural astringents that encourage the skin to balance its own oil production without causing dryness. For women, clary sage, rose, jasmine, geranium and lavender help the body minimize the acne which often reappears midway through the menstrual cycle.
JH: Everyone is different, and these differences can only be personally accounted for in an individualized treatment arena. While there is no "catchall list," in general, I recommend the fruit oils like orange, lemon and grapefruit, plus oils like cypress, juniper, ylang ylang and lemongrass all of which are known to address oily skin conditions. Essential oils that are good for any skin type, including oily, include palmarosa, lavender, geranium, cape chamomile, cedarwood, rosemary (verbenone chemotype), everlasting, thyme (linalol chemotype) and rose. An anti-inflammatory formula should include hylichrysum (the best), German chamomile and cistus. While all essential oils have antiseptic activities, these are especially powerful in this regard: tea tree, eucalyptus (radiata and globulus), green myrtle and niaouli. Since stress often induces acne, oils to reduce stress, such as neroli, clary sage, bergamot, mandarin and mandarin petigrain, are also helpful. It is important to point out that these categories of essential oils and what types of conditions they help must be viewed in the context of a whole product, which include ingredients in addition to the essential oils. The effectiveness of even the best essential oil can be compromised if it is formulated with other ingredients that are unsuitable for one reason or another.
* Laura Craig is a licensed esthetician at inner glow skin spa and IBN member Essential Wholesale. Kayla Fioravanti is the chief formulator and certified/registered aromatherapist at IBN member Essential Wholesale. Jimm Harrison, co-owner of IBN member Spirit of Beauty Nutritional Skin Care, is a licensed cosmetologist and aromatherapist who has delivered classes and workshops on the topic of holistic beauty and esthetics at universities and schools including Bastyr University, Brown University, Harvard University and the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. Jimm is currently working on a comprehensive scientific aromatherapy text and reference to be published by Milady/Delmar publishing next year.
3. Handmade Beauty University Classes Now Available Online!
Get the tools you need to create the life you love whenever and wherever you want! HBU is now offered online so you can learn at your own pace and on your own schedule! Plan classes around your family and job responsibilities, on the days and times most convenient for you! At HBU, you'll discover such things as:
- How to set up the best business structure for you
- How to choose the right target market
- How to create your own marketing and PR materials
- How to launch a website that gets results
- How to generate more referrals
- How to label your products to comply with FDA regulations
- New FREE Live Bonus Business Planning Class!
- An hour of FREE email coaching (a $150.00 value!)
- Sample operating agreement, press releases and product launch worksheet
- Written class notes for each chapter
- Much more!
To learn more and register, click here!
4. Handmade Beauty Recipes Of The Week: Fresh Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh Cucumber Toner
Fresh
Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh
Cucumber Toner are designed especially for oily, tween and teen skin.
Check them out!
When you visit MakeYourCosmetics.com, it's easy to buy the ingredients you need by clicking on our Selected Supplier links:
Essential
Wholesale: pure essential oils, over 200 cosmetic bases, hundreds
of carrier/fixed oils such as meadowfoam, cranberry, jojoba and shea
butter plus a new Short Run Private Labeling Program!
Bramble
Berry, Inc.: over 105 different fragrance
and essential oils (including their exclusive "Energy" and
"Relaxing"), all soap tested, soap molds and unscented soap
bases!
SunRose Aromatics: pure essential oils (many organic), carrier oils and other aromatherapy products, each carefully selected for quality. Check out their new Perfumer's Emporium.
The Scent Shack: fragrance oils and soap supplies. Fragrance oils are pre-tested in cold process, melt & pour soap, and candles, and test results are listed at the Web site. Scents tested by soapers for soapers!
From Nature With Love: over 1,600 ingredients and supplies, including cosmetic ingredients, spa supplies, bath accessories and packaging supplies!
5. Handmade Beauty Trivia Question: the winner of last week's contest was Melissa Vo of Pittsburgh, PA. Melissa won some rose concrete!
Last Week's Question:
I am the child of Venus, the Roman god of love and beauty. I am a winged creature who flies around on Valentine's Day (and on other days when you're not looking) pointing my magical bow and arrow at your heart to inspire feelings of love and romance. Who am I?Last Week's Answer: Cupid
This Week's Question: What human hormone produced by males and females is produced to a greater degree in males, thus contributing to males being more prone to acne than women?
Be the first to correctly answer this week's question and win some cucumber hydrosol.
Please read the contest rules here before submitting your entry. Put "TRIVIA CONTEST ANSWER" in the subject line or your answer will not be considered.
While time does not permit me to respond personally to all entrants,
the winner's name will be announced in the next newsletter!
6.
Handmade
Beauty Product Review: Cocoa L'Orange Shea
Butter Soap
Cocoa L'Orange Shea
Butter Soap
4 oz. | $6.00
I love handmade soap! There's no two ways about it. I mean, I listen to people say that soap is not good for your skin. Well, while I'm hardly close to the end of my life expectancy, I have lived several decades, the last of them using only handmade soap on my body and often on my facial skin as well. I guess I'm hardly objective since I make soap myself. Still! I love handmade soap and I don't think my skin has suffered for using it day in and day out. Having said that, once in a while a handmade soap comes along that is just -- well -- special. And this is one such soap.
Cocoa L'Orange Shea Butter Soap is positively decadent. I mean, look at the picture! Swirls of real chocolate in a base of delicious golden toned soap made with olive oil, coconut oil, virgin coconut cream, shea butter, cocoa butter and jojoba oil, plus neroli and orange blossom wax to boot. Who said you couldn't use exquisite oils in cold process soap?!! And if that combination doesn't turn you on, perhaps you'll enjoy Chocolate Over Roses, made with the same base but perfected this time with chocolate over pink soap make with real rose absolute. Heaven I say!
You
can get your own fragrant treats like these, plus Mandarin Walnut, Lemon
Poppyseed, Lemon Oatmeal, Chai Tea, Bay Leaf, Patchouli Geranium (stock
varies) by emailing Marsha at
Pure Harmony.
7.
Handmade Beauty Book Review:
Sticks, Stones, Roots &
Bones by Stephanie Rose Bird
If you
like using herbs, flowers and oils to enhance
your self-care experience and your life in general, you'll be delighted by the
recipes in this book. The fact that the author also includes her unique perspectives
combined with well researched references to African history, is a rare and
special bonus.
Enjoy the review
of this book and its recipes like Life Me Up Pine Floor Wash, Peace Oil
and Soul Heal Soap.
Visit The Handmade Beauty Connection Archives.
Visit our suite of Web sites serving the handmade toiletries
industry:
HandmadeBeauty.com: the
leading industry trade organization
MangoButter.com:
450+ suppliers of raw materials and packaging, updated weekly!
MakeYourCosmetics.com:
ingredient encyclopedia & original cosmetics recipes
DonnaMaria.com:
sound advice for your small business, Create The Life You Love™
Have your ad seen by nearly 5,000 subscribers! ! Click here to see why Essential Wholesale says that the returns from their newsletter ad "just keep on coming," and why The Scent Shack says, "Our sponsorship of The Handmade Beauty Connection went over very well, we had a huge number of hits on the day the newsletter was published, plus we got quite a few new customers."
Donna Maria, Publisher & Editor-In-Chief, DonnaMaria@HandmadeBeauty.com
The Handmade Beauty Connection
The Indie Beauty Network | www.HandmadeBeauty.com
Copyright (c) 2000 - 2005 by The Indie Beauty Network (IBN) and Donna Maria. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized distribution or reproduction is prohibited. IBN does not necessarily endorse any product, event or ideology featured in The Handmade Beauty Connection (HBC) or on IBN's website. All information is provided on an "as is" basis and no express or implied warranties are given. Any use of the information contained in the HBC or on IBN's Web site, including Recipes, is solely at your own risk. IBN and Donna Maria disclaim any liability in connection with the use of all recipes, products reviewed and other information. Except for sponsorships, HBC refuses compensation from companies to feature or mention their names or products. Opinions expressed in any Product Review are personally those of the reviewer and do not represent the views of IBN, Donna Maria (unless she is the reviewer) or any other person or company.
